Restaurant Review
Ramen Santouka
Renown for:
Hokkaido Ramen, Tokusen Toroniku (Pork Cheeks)
Cuisine:
Japanese
Getting there:
Very easy access into the mall itself; Central is just above Clarke Quay MRT. It’s finding this reclusive outlet that proves to be tricky, a real blink-and-you’ll-miss-it kind of place. Located on level 2, blue zone of the Central @ Clarke Quay, its right behind Rendezvous Nasi Padang; just walk right thru it to get there.
When to go:
Operating hours are from 1100hrs to 2200hrs, daily. As it’s a tiny establishment, compared to its’ competitors nearby, queuing will be inevitable, so either go for your meals there really early or really late to minimise the waiting time.
Waiting Time:
3 Mins (Now thats what I call Fast Food! McD’s watch out!)
Ambience:
Tiny 35 - 40 seater Japanese noodle house get-up. Getting in and out of your seat would probably be easier if you were a contortionist; or a stick - nearly sat on a lady’s shopping bag trying to get in! The restaurant faces out towards the Singapore River with fantastic views of the quay, something you wouldn't expect at a place like this and certainly not at that price point!
First Impressions:
Being a ramen virgin - my only other experience with it was at Ajisen Ramen, which was horrendous compared to this - I didn’t really didn’t know what to expect, let alone give a proper, ramen-connoisseur’s take on it, but I will give it my best shot, I promise you that. Ramen has always been a mystery to me. Resembling instant noodles from my childhood. I would ask myself before ordering it, “why would I pay such a premium to have instant noodles?” Oh have I been proven wrong, so-so wrong. Coming by at 9pm - on a monday night, no less - I thought I could beat the dinner crowd and get a seat easily, and maybe test out their food and service quality when they’re about to close. Once again my presumptions have gotten the better of me. There was still a queue! At a time where other restaurants would be winding down for the day, Santouka still attracts a sizeable following. Note: whenever you see a queue outside a restaurant/eatery/food stall/etc. well after the meal time, you can be pretty sure they’re doing something right. At Santouka, its’ not just the ramen.
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Santouka Ramen @ the Central |
The crux:
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Tonkusen Toroniku Ramen
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My orders came quick! So fast indeed, even McDonald’s would be ashamed! I ordered what was recommended to me by a fellow friend who relishes in the fact this is the best, go-to place for ramen. The Tokusen Toroniku Miso Ramen, which consisted of what the name suggests - ramen - and pork cheeks. With an additional order of Komi Tamago.
The ramen soup was UNBELIEVABLY fantastic! Hot, rich, savoury, salty, umami soy flavour dominated the palate. The Miso base complemented and reinforced the robust stock from which has been simmering away, never boiled, to get all the goodness from the pork bones before adding the other flavouring ingredients. By doing this it allowed the stock to fully absorb all the flavour from the pork in a very slow and soothing way to extract flavours - instead of simply boiling them, which shocks the bones and creates a ‘protective’ layer of cooked meat around it which prevents thorough flavour extraction.
There are other soup base options here besides miso, there’s shoyu, kara-miso and shio, but so far I’ve only had time and space to sample one.
I can see that Santouka prides itself on its’ soup base more than its noodles as it was drowned and lost in that awesome broth. Although being a ramen place, the ramen played second fiddle to the soup. It still had a bite to it - al dente - giving the dish a textural depth. Other than that, you couldn’t taste much from the noodles merely because the soup was too overpowering. However, I’m not complaining.
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Miso ramen & Komi Tamago
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I was so surprised by the Komi Tamago that it was cold; it caught me off-guard! You’ll hardly see a cold dish complementing a hot dish in traditional western cookery - not the modern avant garde stuff. Trust the Japanese to come up with such cunning! The egg was perfectly cooked! Just to my liking, semi-hard white, and just before the yolk, just set white. Yolk still semi-runny to give textural contrast with its custard like centre. Perfection. Moreover, the flavour from it being cooked in a shoyu stock with mirin, sake and sugar, was subtle and present, but not overwhelming.
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Tonkusen Toroniku
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Finally, the rockstar of the show! The grilled & braised pork cheeks. Done so fundamentally well, you can be sure of its’ taste and texture every time you have it. Soft, tender, melts in your mouth and not on your chopsticks! One can see the layer of shimmering fat on the surface of the pork and imagine it clogging up their arteries, but put a slice in your mouth and all is forgotten as you shut your mouth and let the pork do the talking - or in this case, the melting. Its’ texture resembled that of foie gras and flavour that of fatty tuna. Although it wasn’t very hot, it was adequate as if it were hot, then all the well marbled, intramuscular fat would have then dripped away. The cheek was also very well seasoned and its roasted flavour was prominent.
Sadly, my dinner had to end on a sour note. Probably being in a rush to get off work, a waiter asked me if I could move over to an adjacent table so that he could make space and add an additional table to my current table.
Following that, another waiter, rather coldly, told me “Excuse me sir, we are closing the register, could you please pay? Thank you” I think this was just plain rude in an attempt to get me to pay. I mean he could have better formed his sentences and chose better words to make himself less forceful in getting customers to settle their bills.
In hindsight, at the amount I paid, I was probably nit picking at their service standard, which was just average from the get-go.
Price & Value for money:
$24.70 for my set with the addition of the Tamago. Very good value for money!
The verdict:
Fabulous food, irresistible views of the Singapore River, all at a fairly non-restaurant like price. What’s there to not like about this place?! Sure there were some lapses in service, but the food more than makes up for it. Come by for their Tonkusen Toroniku Ramen and be sure to add in those green onions on the side! They add crunch, bite and freshness to the hearty soup! With that, I will be judging all other ramen against Santouka. Seeing that Santouka is a huge franchise, and its' quality hasn't been diluted by it going big, I’m definitely coming back for more!
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Santouka around the world
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Final Score:
9/10
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